So, even if your shifter is working, it's worth taking a look to see if it's really solid in there. At the top end, the detente plate was shimmed with 8 thin washers (all carefully cut into quarters) and the space between the shift arm and the return spring was shimmed with a nut. The bottom bearing was replaced with a piece of pvc pipe. In my case, the column had been opened up before and jury-rigged. Here's how it looked when I had the column out:Īs a final note, you never can tell what someone has done before you. The column must be removed from the car to properly replace this bushing. This is the bushing that disintegrates causing much slop in the shifing tube. In the end, I didn't know the difference between the "moulding cover" and the "finish panel" (or any of the other parts) without a diagram. This is the complete breakdown of the steering column NOTE:- The main item to identify is the 'Nylon Bushing' at the top of the picture. The shop manual has a name for every part of the dashboard. If I were doing this again, I would loosen it early-a shop light shining through the opening from behind makes the process of working under the hood easier. Late in the process, I figured out that the rubber boot at the bottom of the column had to be loosened. To maintain some sense of appearance I believe I am going to get a tubular steel shaft that is 5/8' ID and 3/4' OD to mount on the column. ![]() After much consideration I have decided to completely remove the original 3 speed shifting arm and shaft from the steering column. You can see them way down there, on the far right of this shot: Steering Column, Front End Sheet Metal, Air Ducts, etc. It must fit the slot in the tube assembly to prevent side to side. The head width of the screw is approximately 1/2. It is a 1/4- 28 slotted flat head with a thread length approximately 3/8 long. This screw controls up and down movement of the steering wheel. Finally, I took off the corner brace and the valve cover, which gave me just enough room to get to the bolts on the firewall. Photo 5 Shown is an original stop screw for the upper steering column. ![]() The brake master cylinder is in the way-but I just put that in and wasn't going to take it back out. Some instructions start with removal of the hood hinge, but I was worried about the hood being supported on one hinge. I have long, skinny arms, but still had a terrible time getting to the bolts on the rag joint, and an even more difficult time reaching the two bolts on the firewall that mount the steering column. I thought I'd note them here in case they can help anyone in the future.Īs I posted earlier, I had a sloppy shifter and a completely broken rag joint (steering coupler) on my 64 hardtop. I read as many of them as I could before starting the job, but still found a few surprises. There are lots of posts in the archives on shifter repair and steering column removal.
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